When I did my first new route, my view of climbing was definitely changed. Before that, I was looking in guidebooks and searching online to see what someone else did to find out what options are available, and then one day I was looking at a crag in my backyard mountain and a beautiful line caught my eye and I thought I can do that new route. As it turned out later I actually could not do that certain route back then. However I realized that I have a passion for exploring and developing new routes. Doing new routes adds so much more than just do a climb, you have to figure it out, clean the rock, prepare it and then climb it; a process that takes a lot of effort. The whole process adds up a lot of adventure and it is a bit psychological because of the sense of unknown that is an essential part of adventure.
On the following article I am going to cover some selective single pitch routes around Madari mountains, the place that I spend most of my time playing and training while I am in Cyprus.
Route: Πρωτη Επαφη (First Contact)
Sector: View Point Crag
Grade: V+
Access: The crag is easily accessible from the ‘Teisia tis Madaris’ trail. Park just below the Madari fire look-out station and follow the trail signed as ‘Teisia tis Madaris’ for 300m and then take the first left exit towards the view point. Before you reach the bench, go left next to the rock face to reach the base of the crag.
Story: Πρωτη Επαφη was the first steep route that I and my brother tried to ground up onsight back in 2012. As it turned out it was steeper and dirtier than what it looked from below so we had to bail half way up. After our unsuccessful attempt we went back and cleaned it and kind of forgot about it, subsequently I returned and free climbed it on January 2015. The route follows the most distinctive line on the crag. Climb straight up to the overhanging block and then follow the crack diagonally to the left.
Route: Αγωνας (Battle)
Sector: Σελλαδιν του Καραμανλη
Grade: VII
Access: The crag is accessible from ‘Seladi tou Karamanli’ on the road from Spilia village to Saranti village. From there ascend the trail towards Marari for about 500m until you reach the view point sign on the right and a bench on the left and then follow the faint path to the right. The route is the eye catching crack that is visible on the way up the trail. To access the beginning of the route you can either walk through the dense vegetation to the base of the route or abseil from the top.
Story: When we first tried the route, it kicked our asses so we had to go back and worked it on top-rope for a couple of sessions. I headpoint climbed the route on November 2015. The line follows a short face section that leads on some ledges and then an amazing quality crack all the way to the top. The crux is on the final couple of moves so reserve some energy.
Route: Πεζουνοσσειλαρουα
Sector: Πεζουνογκρεμος
Grade: VI
Access: After reaching ‘Seladi tou Karamanli’ as described above continue on the road for 200m and then park to the left on a big open space. From there follow the trail towards Pezounogkremos until you reach the kiosk with the two benches and then head east, when you reach the crag you have to go around it as the route is on the east face of the crag.
Story: My brother and I cleaned and climbed the upper section of the route on October 2014 and we did the full route on July 2016. The line follows an amazing quality crack all the way up with a small ledge in the middle. After the ledge avoid using the rock on the back and follow the crack all the way to the top.
Route: The Double Rainbow
Sector: Christmas Crag
Grade: V
Access: Approach from the shortcut path at ‘Teishia tis Madaris’ trail. After you reach the main trail, walk north for 1km until you see the two parallel rock dykes on your right next to the forest cairn. The route is located on the south-west face of the rock dyke that is further away from the trail.
Story: This route is shorter and easier than the previous three however, it is a good introduction to the climbing style of the area on a really good quality rock. I and Andreas climbed the route on March 2015 (both on lead) after a light rain shower. When we reach the top we saw a magnificent double rainbow.
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